2004 expedition to Aconcagua (6962 m)

Objective of the expedition

Primary objective was to summit Aconcagua in Argentina and to return safely back home in The Netherlands in 2003/2004. Aconcagua is the tallest mountain of the American continent, 6962 meters, and one of the 7 Summits.

Secondary objectives were:

• Approach and climb the mountain using a route other than the Normal route
• Organize the expedition ourselves

Success

We considered it a successful expedition if everyone:

• summitted
• returned safely home
• had fun.

Time frame

The best time to go to Aconcagua is their summer period. Normally one would climb the mountain between mid December and mid March.

The plan was to take 5 weeks for the trip. Twenty days for the Aconcagua itself and the rest for acclimatization, transport, relaxing, etc.

Location

Official name	:	Cerro Aconcagua
Altitude	:	6962 meters, 22,841 feet
Coordinates	:	32°39.190' South, 70°00.270' West
1st ascent	:	Mathias Zurbriggen, 1897

The team

Ideally a team would comprise 4 to 6 persons. Initially we had a team of 4, but unfortunately one had to cancel, so we ended up with a team of three. If we had diminished to a couple, we would have considered taking the Normal route.

On the photo, clockwise starting with the red helmet:

• Marja.
  Born in 1972.
  She joined a couple of guided trekkings in Nepal (a.o. Mera Peak) and India. In 2002 she started rock climbing and in 2003 she attended a course in Alpine climbing.
• Antonio.
  Born in 1967.
  He started rock climbing in the mid 1990’s and ice climbing in the early 2000’s. He attempted Mont Blanc in summer 2003.
• Otto.
  Born in 1960.
  He started rock climbing in the late 1980’s. In the mid 1990’s he broadened his view to Alpine climbing and in the early 2000’s to ice climbing. He summitted Kilimanjaro and Mera Peak.
  He has been a member of the Dutch Mountaineering Club (NKBV) since 1970.